A land of some of the most incredible landscapes I've ever seen, from the Pamir and Hindu Kush mountains reaching almost 8,000 metres to the deserts of Uzbekistan and Turkmenistan. Not forgetting the otherworldly Davarza fire crater also known as 'The Gateway to Hell'. Another land of amazingly hospitable people who always went out of their way to help me on my journey often putting a roof over my head or warming me up with a hot cup of Chai!
At the Davarza fire crater in Turkmenistan.
In no mans land between Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan. Warm people who helped me on my journey..........especially when I had food poisoning.
A lovely family in Tajikistan who put a roof over my head for about 3 days during never ending torrential rains.
Photo's from Kyrgyzstan.
The Pamirs.......
On my way up to Song Kol Lake.
Photos from spectacular Pamir Highway 'The Roof of the World' and the Wakhan valley shared by Tajikistan and Afghanistan.
The Pamir Highway is a road traversing the Pamir mountains through Afghanistan, Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, and Kyrgyzstan in Central Asia.
It is the only continuous route through the difficult terrain of the
mountains and serves as the main supply route to Tajikistan's Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Region.
The route has been in use for millennia, as there are a limited number
of viable routes through the high Pamir Mountains. The road formed one
link of the ancient Silk Road trade route. It is the second-highest international highway in the world (4,655 m).
Karakul lake, which sits at about 4,000 metres. I had an incredible sunset here as I set up my tent and cooked my dinner. During the night here I was suddenly woken by the earth shaking. At first I thought earthquake, but the shaking was getting louder and louder. I then realised that it must be a herd of galloping horses so still three quarters asleep I panicked to get out of my sleeping bag and tent. The galloping herd were getting closer and closer and in my panic I could not unzip my tent door. By the time I did manage to get out my tent was surrounded my a cloud of dust caused by a huge herd a yaks. My heart was pounding. Close call!
Entering the Wakhan Valley, and looking onto the 7,000 metre Hindu Kush Mountains which separate Afghanistan and Pakistan.
The Wakhan valley was definitely one of the highlights of my trip. It has heart stopping views, it can be extremely remote (at times I didn't see one person for more than two days! Not even a passing car), and when you do meet people they welcome you with open arms.
I had one close call in the Wakhan Valley.........As I was cycling I suddenly heard a group of men shouting in my direction from the Afghan side of the river. I just assumed they were excited to see a foreigner so I waved back shouting 'hello'. Suddenly there was a huge explosion and I really thought my ear drums were going to burst. In a split second I had turned around and was cycling as fast as I could in the opposite direction. I turned around to have a look at what had happened to see it raining rocks, which flew over the river and down onto the road, the nearest one landing only metres away from me. My heart was going like crazy. I suddenly realised that the men in Afghanistan were trying to warn me that they had just lit some explosives where they were trying to maintain the road, which literally sits on a cliff face. In the end we had a good chuckle about it across the river to each other.
Photos from Uzbekistan.
A Vulture
The famous ancient Silk Road city of Bukhara.
In Khiva
Photo's of the Davarza gas fire crater in Turkmenistan. One of the most amazing yet strangest experiences of my life. There is no sign post for this place. As I went through the village of Davarza I finally managed to find someone who pointed me in the right direction. I didn't have a clue if this was the right way as it was just a faint track going through the desert off the main road. I decided to go for it. As I pushed my bike through thick sand between sand dunes it was starting to get dark. I was beginning to think that I might just have to set up camp and look for it in the morning. But as it got darker I could suddenly see a glow in the distance, and as I got closer again I could hear the roar of flames and even see gas rising up into the air. So on I went in the pitch dark following the light of the fire crater like a fly. I eventually made it and was blown away by the sight! A huge crater full of fire in the middle of the desert, and not a soul to be seen. It was a bitterly cold night, one of the coldest I've ever experienced. It was strange to stand close to the crater to feel the intense heat while the back of my body was freezing cold. It was also a little scary as the light of the crater blinded everything else out of view, so I could hear strange animal noises but could not see a thing. Eventually I was rewarded with an incredible view of the moon rising over the crater. Soon after I set up camp well away from the crater so as not to get gassed out, and didn't sleep that well during the intensely cold night. Nevermind, I was the only person at this weird but wonderful place. An experience I will never forget.
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